Boondocking rv electrical system12/17/2023 ![]() ![]() Just to follow my logic (and see if it does actually sound logical), I"m going to think out loud.ġ) So you have an electrical cable that runs from the start battery positive post straight to the house battery (bank) positive post. I wouldn't say it couldn't be the separator, but I'm not sure I see that as most probable. some weird intermittent thing that only happens when you are out camping. Well, at least you have something you can test for now, vs. If that wasn't clear (or is super obvious), sorry: I don't know how familiar you are with any of this so just picked a spot to start. Since it also happens when just parked, I'd start by testing for any draws at the start battery (easy to get to, and that's what's going flat). Here is the amp clamp I have (I got it so I could measure the starting amps of an engine, but it is nice for other things too): ![]() Here is an example of a simple multi-meter (that is still twice as much as my true cheapy): 8 amps), and then I put the battery cable back on and used the amp clamp - it also measured. I first removed the cable and used the little cheap probe meter to measure it (was only around. I wasn't sure if it would measure accurately enough for a small parasitic load but as it happens I just helped a friend with tracking down a parasitic load on her other-brand Class C. This has a pair of "arms" that you just put around the battery cable (or other wire). There is one other style of meter that makes it really easy (and can also measure large amp loads), and that is an amp clamp type meter. But likely your parasitic load is like 1-3 amps. One caveat is that many small meters have a 10 amp fuse in them, so you wouldn't want to measure more than that. So in other words the meter becomes "part of" the circuit and the power has to go through it. So on the start battery, for example, you would remove the negative battery cable, set the meter to DC amps, and then put one of the probes of the meter on the negative battery terminal, and one on the battery clamp you just removed from the battery terminal. That is that unlike measuring voltage or resistance (when you can just put the probes on the battery post or device), to measure amp draw you have to "insert" the meter into the circuit. There is one "thing" about measuring the amp draw. Then bingo, you have it (unless it's going to be stubbornly mysterious). If so, I'd just start unplugging (or taking the fuses out) of any likely culprits and see when the draw goes away. You put it on the start battery and see if it registers any amps. The one I'm carrying around now is just a super cheapy (under $10) from an auto parts store. If you don't mind doing a bit of meter work, you can really use just about any multi-meter. Well in a way that makes it easier as you can test it out any old time (since it would happen parked at home). So it happens both when parked and when camping? Hmmm. You know, everything had to be millenium around 2000 and shortly thereafter I think the swoopy design (in all color schemes) was called the "Millenium" paint job. They can also be manually locked out, etc.).Ĭ) The location on the fenderwell was not only hot (engine) and potentially wet, it was dang near impossible to get to (check the connections? Ha, maybe if you have mouse arms).Īny of these only need to be somewhere along the path of the wire from the start battery positive post to the house battery positive post, so they don't need to be in the engine compartment necessarily.Īre you familiar with testing with a meter? Notice I said "was." A few reasons for that:Ī) It was recalled by Surepower (there is a serial number range).ī) It's an older style separator and there are (IMO) better ones now (newer magnetic latching types don't draw power like the older ones do, and also don't induce voltage drop. I don't know if a 2003 came with the same one mine did, but mine was a Surepower 1315. But if this doesn't happen when you are parked (not camping) then it doesn't seem likely, unless you do something different when you are boondocking (GPS plugged in or something else charging from dash 12v outlets, etc.).Ģ) You are running the coach (living room) stereo a lot while camping (it draws power from both the start and house batteries as wired from Chinook - some of us have changed it so it only draws from the house batteries).ģ) Something has gone haywire with your separator. I can think of three possibilities (there are probably more but these come to mind):ġ) You simply have a parasitic load on the start battery (from the cab/Ford system). You are right in that it should be "sacred" and untouchable so you always have it to start and go (without constantly using the crutch of the self-jump-start). So, why is your chassis battery draining while you boondock. Welcome! I've only seen a few "swoopy" Chinooks with that blue/green color scheme and it is one of my favorites. ![]()
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